After
idyllic Cape Range camping, could it really get any
better on this West Australian coastline? Yes, it could so Fiela assured me. He
had been waxing lyrically about a station called Warroora (pronounced Worra)
where we could stay on its endless Ningaloo reef beach frontage for the week
for $100. In fact anyone who spoke of Warroora stared off into the distance,
eyes glazed as they spoke of white untouched beaches, where protected reef and
snorkelling spots stood side by side with amazing fishing and surf breaks. I
was sold.
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The tranquil waters of 14 Mile at Warroora. |
Until
we got to 14 Mile, the northernmost of the Warroora campsites and met its camp
host, Rossco. To be honest, it wasn't even this morbidly-obese-perennially-half-clothed-tanned-to-an-indecent-shade-of-orange
specimen that put me off; he was really quite jovial. It was the line of
tightly packed TV antennas I could see straining into the sky, down the beach
for as far as I could see. This was deserted paradise? We asked about other
campsites we'd heard of further down the coast,
but old Rossco was cagey to say the least, actively discouraging us from
even taking a drive down there the next day.
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Our first camp at Warroora. |
|
Beautiful sunrise with the moon still up. |
So we
found a spot behind the dunes, away from the hordes lined up side by side on
the beautiful white beach and it was lovely. But I certainly wasn't about to
get misty eyed about Warroora. In fact I was contemplating just staying a few
days and moving on, until the next day when we did drive down to those other
'full' sites. We got as far as Sandy Bay
and then the Stevens campsite before 'Rossco' officially became a dirty word.
Far from busy, Stevens was practically deserted and up over (OK, I'll admit,
a very sizeable dune that stupid Rossco would never make up in an orange
fit) the dune was a crystal clear, reef protected lagoon, a surf break just to
the south and channel aching to be fished in. R#!@co!!!!
We
drove back, a bit pissed off, but we'd planned to go to Coral
Bay tomorrow when the wind was
supposed to howl anyway and fill up our water cans while we were there- the Coral Bay
Caravan Park
sold drinking water at 10 cents per litre (that's a whole other story!).
|
Beautiful, protected Sandy Bay. |
Coral Bay is really pretty, but all we
did was have a quick snorkel in its protected waters. I came out from my lone
snorkel (Oh my, heaven in the water! What a girl has to do to get some alone
time!?) amazed at two things. First were the amazing coral formations unlike
anything else I'd seen, almost like gigantic underwater wood roses: they are
beautiful. And secondly, that my husband had spent so much time fishing the
West Australian coastline and had caught practically nothing. The bloody fish
were everywhere! Was he fishing with
breadcrumbs? Massive spangled emperor swam lazily around Coral Bay
within casting distance of the shore. Yes alright, it was a marine sanctuary... But still. Shit,
I felt like I had a better chance of getting a feed of fish from a seagull at
this point than from Fiela.
|
.... and he came back to camp and caught this spangled emperor. Excited much? |
|
The gorgeous waters of Coral Bay- very protected and safe for family swimming. |
Anyway, Coral Bay is pretty touristy, but if you
can't get down to Warroora because you're in a 2WD vehicle and you don't have
the time to muck around with the maybe's of getting into Cape Range National
Park, then it comes a very close second.
There's heaps of great snorkelling and lots of other tour options like quad
biking, fishing charters and the like. But we headed back down to Warroora, ready
to begin our true station stay there.
|
Marguerite's shell haul. |
Even as
we left, Rossco shook his head, he couldn't understand what it was about
Stevens- why would we leave easy beach access for dunes and isolation? It just
goes to show, some people's idea of paradise is not another's.
|
Looking down into Steven's Campsite. |
We
bagged the best spot at Steven’s since it was almost deserted, a few metres
away from the Dove's who'd also managed to extricate themselves from Rossco's
grasp. We spent four beautiful days in this arid spot, totally in love with its
blue water so clear it was like being in a bath.
|
Keeping fit and tiring the kids out on the walk over to the beach. |
|
Lagoon goodness. |
|
Our camp spot looking down from the top of the dune. |
Fiela
had a couple of surfs and managed to catch some fish (hoo-bloody-rah), we even
grabbed some beautifully sweet oysters straight off the rocks. Lizzie and I
went out into the lagoon a couple of times for a snorkel, viewing some gorgeous bommies. We saw a
little reef shark hiding under a rock shelf, some interesting coral and
spectacularly colored fish... Even an incredibly bright orange sea slug we
named Rossco.
|
The ghetto-camp kids and Fiela's latest catch- another spangled emperor. |
The wind blew a bit but we didn't mind, the
dunes were high and we puffed our way over them, but it was alright. The only
mobile reception was limited to one bar at the highest dune and that was fine,
there were only a few other people camped here but the isolation didn't make us
feel lonely. Our chemical toilet smelt, our water was incredibly precious and
we scraped the bottom of the cupboard drawers trying to cobble together our
meals… and suddenly the week was done. On the last day, when the water in the
lagoon was glassy and crystal clear, we drive off, resolving next time to be
prepared to stay three times as long and bypass the Rossco factor altogether.
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