|Looking west from Kuiper Point, rock shelves in the foreground.|
|The mudcrab haul.|
|Rightful status restored. Hunter.|
|Beach combing... and looking out for crocodiles.|
We certainly ate well. Between the oysters, mudcrab and the combined cheffing prowess of the Braggs and the UysHuis, there were definitely no lean times in Coburg, even with the absence of fish. The Rangers were happy to give us fishing tips and spots to try, though they certainly weren't divulging any of their own favourite awesome spots. They came around every day to clear the bins and have a chat about how things were going, even dispensing some bush remedies to those of us suffering with the mosquitoes (which were about but not as prolific as those at Kakadu).
|Another great fishing spot- lots and lots of parrot fish and mangrove jack, all undersize unfortunately.|
However, one of the Rangers almost caused me to have a brain explosion when on the last day he trotted out the well worn line given by some well worn travellers that "everywhere" is ruined "now" because there are too many people travelling about. He used the example of Cape York, and how ".. it was a beautiful place. When I went 30 years ago they only had 500 cars go up that season... Now there are 10,000s every year. It's overrun. Absolutely ruined!" This kind of attitude is so arrogant and useless, and the sense of proprietorship some people have over travel spots is amazingly ridiculous. Of course, some places are 'loved to death' and need careful management, but the idea that somewhere has been ruined because visitor numbers have increased since you yourself, a visitor, went there is selfish and unrealistic. I could rant for hours, but will just end by saying I thought this was a fairly ill-prepared comment, since by proxy we were contributing to the ruination of Coburg Peninsula according to this guy. End rant.
|The kids, ruining the beach.|
It was incredibly hot while we were here, and the water was so clear and inviting it was very difficult not to spend a morning just playing in the water in one of the protected coves. But after a number of beach and sea side croc sightings, the most swimming we did was a very quick and tense swim on our last afternoon. The water was beautiful, but the idea that one of us had to be lookout whilst the other swam took a lot of the fun out of it. The heat at night also proved challenging, with sleep being the first casualty.
|The jetty near the Rangers Station.|
|On the drive back to Kakadu; it had taken only a week and most of the muddy washouts had dried up.|
|More gorgeous Arnhem landscapes.|
|Rock art as seen from the road.|
We made it over obviously, and as we headed up the bank Aboriginal leaders stood and clapped, shouting out encouragement (or lambast?) as the water sloughed off the car and our camper trailer. Fiela of course thought this was excellent. Why wouldn't he? A male, doing a stupid thing, being congratulated by other males. Completely normal and extremely validating.
I can't really laugh about it yet, but I can recognise that my husband has driving skills and nerves greater than I could hope to have. After our week on the Coburg Peninsula he was exhausted: the drive(s), the heat and the unending hunt for sealife taking its toll. But he had guided us back, relatively unscathed, wearily looking down the barrel of our next adventure- Sydney. A luxurious week in a house surrounded by modern conveniences couldn't have come at a better time!